Got it! I'll research the best options for buying a camper van within a $20,000 budget, focusing on what you can realistically get for your money. This will include used Sprinter, Transit, and ProMaster models, comparing factors like mileage, reliability, and availability in that price range.I'll get back to you with recommendations soon.

Best Used Vans for a Camper Conversion (Under $20,000)

Converting a cargo van into a camper can be affordable if you choose the right used van. We’ll compare three popular options – the Mercedes-Benz Sprinter, Ford Transit, and Ram ProMaster – to see which offers the best value under $20,000. We’ll look at typical model years, mileage, condition, reliability, drivetrain options, and common issues for each. Finally, we’ll discuss which van gives the best bang for your buck and provide tips on buying from a dealer vs. a private seller and how to negotiate.

Mercedes Sprinter (Used Under $20K)

Model Years & Price Range: To stay within a $20K budget, Sprinters are generally older models. You’ll commonly find **2004-2012 Sprinters** in this price range, often with high mileage[a.wholelottanothing.org](https://a.wholelottanothing.org/tips-on-buying-a-used-sprinter-van/#:~:text=The%20T1N%20is%20the%20late,it%27s%20a%20low%20mileage%20one). Some early NCV3 generation Sprinters (2007-2013) might dip under$ n20K if they have very high miles or wear. For example, buyers report seeing 2008–2010 Sprinters listed around _ $15,000 USD with ~143,000 miles_[reddit.com](https://www.reddit.com/r/vandwellers/comments/4mun1n/how_many_km_or_miles_does_a_sprinter_typically/#:~:text=I%27m%20seeing%20a%20lot%20of,how%20long%20they%20last%2C%20etc). Newer Sprinters (2014-2016) usually cost more, but occasionally a high-mileage 2014+ might appear near$ n20K.

Typical Mileage: Used Sprinters under $20K almost always have well over 100,000 miles – it’s not uncommon to see 150k, 200k, or even 300k miles on the odometera.wholelottanothing.org. In fact, older Sprinters (the 2002–2006 T1N models) often have 200–300k miles by nowa.wholelottanothing.org. The good news is that the Sprinter’s 3.0L V6 diesel engine is famous for longevity – with proper maintenance, these engines can run 300,000 to 500,000 miles or morea.wholelottanothing.org a.wholelottanothing.org. This means a Sprinter with 150k or 200k miles may still have a lot of life left. However, high mileage does put you in the zone where expensive maintenance (especially on the emissions system) might be due (more on that below).

Condition Expectations: At this price, most Sprinters will be ex-commercial work vans. Expect cosmetic wear and tear: the cargo area may have scratches, dents, or drill holes from shelving. The body may show rust, especially on older models – Sprinters are known to develop rust around wheel wells, door sills, and underbody if not cared for. Inside, the cab might have torn seats or stained floor mats from heavy use. It’s realistic to find a Sprinter that’s mechanically sound but looks a bit rough. Don’t be surprised if you find basic features (manual locks, no cruise control) on cargo versions in this range. Any Sprinter already converted for camping will likely cost more than $20K, so assume you’re buying a blank cargo van or one with minimal build-out.**Reliability and Longevity:** Sprinters can last a long time, but maintenance history is **crucial**. A well-maintained Sprinter diesel can easily exceed 300k miles[a.wholelottanothing.org](https://a.wholelottanothing.org/tips-on-buying-a-used-sprinter-van/#:~:text=point%2C%20they%20tend%20to%20have,it%27s%20a%20low%20mileage%20one), but a neglected one can become a money pit. The Sprinter’s diesel engine is **robust** and delivers good torque and fuel economy (~20 MPG)[a.wholelottanothing.org](https://a.wholelottanothing.org/tips-on-buying-a-used-sprinter-van/#:~:text=A%20Sprinter%20van%27s%20V6%20Turbo,sitting%20around%20in%20wreck%20yards). However, Sprinters are complex machines with costly parts. Owners and fleet managers note that after ~100k miles, Sprinters often require significant upkeep. Notably, one fleet owner of 47 Sprinters observed that **nearly every Sprinter had a very expensive emissions-system failure by 120k-150k miles**[vanlivingforum.com](https://vanlivingforum.com/threads/the-fatal-flaw-of-mercedes-benz-sprinters.20997/post-244633#:~:text=reliability%20of%20the%20vehicle%2C%20and,experiences%20with%20Mercedes%20dealer%20service). In other words, by the time a Sprinter is in our under-$ n20k, ~150k-mile target, it may need repairs to the DEF/DPF (diesel exhaust aftertreatment) systemvanlivingforum.com. On the bright side, the engine block and transmission are known to be durable if maintained. It’s common to find Sprinters still running strong at 200k+ miles, and many camper van travelers choose them for their long-haul reputation. Just go in knowing that maintenance and repair costs on a Mercedes can be higher than for domestic vans – parts and labor (at Mercedes dealers especially) will cost morevanlivingforum.com.

Drivetrain Options: Older Sprinters are rear-wheel drive (RWD). Mercedes did introduce a 4x4 (four-wheel-drive) Sprinter around 2015, but a used 4x4 Sprinter commands a big premium – often $8K–$ n10K more than a comparable 2WD modela.wholelottanothing.org. It’s very unlikely to find a factory 4x4 Sprinter under $20k (unless it’s extremely high mileage or damaged). So practically, all Sprinters in this budget will be RWD. This is fine for most van campers; RWD Sprinters handle well on highways. If you need winter traction, you can add good snow tires. (AWD was introduced in the newest generation Sprinters (2019+), but those are far above this price range). Sprinters all have automatic transmissions in the U.S. (older ones a 5-speed, newer a 5 or 7-speed).

Common Issues to Watch For (Sprinter): Every used Sprinter has some quirks. Here are common problems in Sprinters under $20K and how to avoid a bad deal:

Diesel Emissions System: The DEF (diesel exhaust fluid), DPF (particulate filter), and EGR systems on Sprinters can trigger warning lights or “limp mode” reduced-power conditions as they age. Many Sprinters need DPF cleaning or sensor replacements around 100k+ miles. In fact, a well-known report calls the emissions system the Sprinter’s “fatal flaw,” claiming most will face expensive DEF/EGR repairs by ~120k milesvanlivingforum.com. How to avoid: Look for a Sprinter with documented service history – ideally one that has already had the NOx/DEF sensors, EGR valve, or DPF serviced if it’s high mileage. During a test drive, ensure there are no check-engine lights and that the van accelerates freely (no limp mode). If possible, have a mechanic scan for stored fault codes.
Oil Leaks (Oil Cooler Seal): The V6 Sprinter is prone to a leaky oil cooler seal on models ~2007–2012. This gasket often fails around every ~100k milesa.wholelottanothing.org. It’s not catastrophic to the engine, but it’s a labor-intensive fix (the seal is cheap, but requires ~2 days of labor – a ~ $3000 job)[a.wholelottanothing.org](https://a.wholelottanothing.org/tips-on-buying-a-used-sprinter-van/#:~:text=The%20bummer%20is%20this%20gasket,you%20aren%27t%20surprised%20later%20on). **How to avoid**: Check underneath the engine for oil residue. Bring a flashlight and look for fresh oil on the bottom of the engine[a.wholelottanothing.org](https://a.wholelottanothing.org/tips-on-buying-a-used-sprinter-van/#:~:text=I%20mention%20this%20because%20this,though%20it%20was%20a%202012). If you see a significant oil leak coming from the valley of the V6, it could be the oil cooler seal[a.wholelottanothing.org](https://a.wholelottanothing.org/tips-on-buying-a-used-sprinter-van/#:~:text=I%20mention%20this%20because%20this,though%20it%20was%20a%202012). If the van otherwise checks out, use this as a **negotiation point** - you may ask the seller to knock ~$ n3k off the price to cover the repaira.wholelottanothing.org.
Injector “Black Death”: On older 5-cylinder T1N Sprinters (2002–2006) and early V6 models, leaking fuel injectors can cause a tar-like buildup (nicknamed “black death”). How to avoid: If you’re considering a 2000s Sprinter, inspect around the fuel injectors for any black, sooty crud or smell of exhaust in the cabin. That residue indicates injector seal leakagewww.sprinter.repair. Fixing it involves removing the injectors and cleaning the head – doable, but you’d want a steep discount or proof it’s been fixed.
Rust and Body Wear: Sprinters, especially older ones, can suffer rust issues. How to avoid: Inspect all typical rust spots: the lower door panels, around the windshield, wheel arches, and the frame underneatha.wholelottanothing.org. Some surface rust is common on a 10+ year old Sprinter; you just want to avoid severe structural rust. Budget some funds to treat and repaint minor rust to prevent spread. Also check doors and hinges – the rear door cables and slider door mechanism might be worn on high-mileage vans (make sure they open/close smoothly).
General Wear: Because many Sprinters under $20k were work vans, check the suspension and brakes. If the van was overloaded in the past (e.g. carrying plumbing equipment), the rear suspension may be saggy or shocks worn out[a.wholelottanothing.org](https://a.wholelottanothing.org/tips-on-buying-a-used-sprinter-van/#:~:text=Personally%2C%20I%20think%20the%20happy,of%20life%20left%20in%20them). During a test drive, listen for clunks (could indicate worn ball joints or sway bar links). None of these are deal-breakers if you’re handy, but you should factor the cost of new shocks, bushings, brakes, etc., into your budget if they haven’t been done. **Summary (Sprinter):** A used Sprinter can be a solid camper platform given its **tall interior and strong diesel engine**. You’re likely looking at a 10- to 15-year-old van with 150k+ miles around this price. The upside is longevity - many owners report Sprinters running into the hundreds of thousands of miles if cared for[a.wholelottanothing.org](https://a.wholelottanothing.org/tips-on-buying-a-used-sprinter-van/#:~:text=point%2C%20they%20tend%20to%20have,it%27s%20a%20low%20mileage%20one). The downside is maintenance cost: expect higher-than-average upkeep (one estimate was about **$ 5,000 in maintenance per 100k km** (~62k miles) for Sprinter fleetswww.reddit.com). If you go the Sprinter route, prioritize one that has been well-maintained (even if miles are high) over a slightly newer one that’s been neglected. A Sprinter can be a great long-term camper van if you’re prepared to invest time and money in maintenance. If your budget is tight for repairs, you might find better overall value in the Transit or ProMaster.

Ford Transit (Used Under $20K)

Model Years & Price Range: The Ford Transit (full-size, not the smaller Transit Connect) was introduced to North America in 2015. With up to $20,000, you can find relatively **newer model years** compared to the Sprinter. Commonly, **2015–2017 Transit vans** are available under$ n20k, often former fleet vehicles. For instance, a 2015 Transit-250 cargo with ~138k miles can be found in this price bracketwww.pritchardsford.com. Even some 2018–2019 Transits fall under $20k if they have very high mileage – e.g. a 2019 Transit 350 passenger van with ~172k miles was listed just under$ n20k at a dealerwww.hutchesonford.com. Generally, expect mid-2010s Transits in this range, which means you’re getting a newer vehicle (around 5-8 years old) for the money, albeit with more miles on it.

Typical Mileage: Used Transits under $20k often have 100,000 to 180,000 miles. Many are retired delivery vans or rental passenger vans that rack up highway miles. A well-maintained Transit with 150k miles is fairly normal at this price. Fortunately, the Ford is built for commercial duty and can handle high mileage. A typical Transit’s lifespan is around 160k–300k miles before major overhaul, depending on carewww.copilotsearch.com. “High mileage” for a Transit is usually considered 150k+www.copilotsearch.com. So if you’re buying one with ~120k or 150k miles, you’re in the mid-life of the vehicle. Plenty of Transits run beyond 200k with fleet maintenance – and some even more. The key is maintenance (oil changes, transmission fluid changes, etc.) because neglect will shorten that lifespan on any van.

Condition Expectations: Transits in this budget are typically fleet turn-ins – think delivery companies, tradesmen, or airport shuttles. The condition can actually be decent if the fleet maintained them. You might find service records or Carfax showing regular oil changes (for example, some large fleets service vehicles on schedule). The exterior might have minor dings or filled holes where company logos or roof racks were mounted. Interiors could have partition walls or shelving removed (leaving drill holes). The driver’s seat might show wear or minor tear after 100k+ miles of use. Overall, though, because these Transits are newer than equivalently priced Sprinters, you often get more modern features (backup camera became standard on later models, etc.) and sometimes a cleaner interior. Still, expect a no-frills work van in most cases – vinyl seats, basic stereo, and raw cargo space in back ready for conversion. If you can find a passenger version (with windows and seats) under $20k, it might have very high miles or be a low-roof model; most high-roof cargo versions hold their value a bit more.**Reliability and Maintenance:** The Transit is generally seen as **reliable and easier/cheaper to maintain** than a Sprinter. Ford offers both gasoline and diesel engines in the Transit, but in the U.S. most under-$ n20k used Transits will have a gasoline engine. The common engines are the 3.7L V6 (base engine), the 3.5L EcoBoost V6 (turbocharged, higher power), or occasionally the 3.2L inline-5 turbo Power Stroke diesel (mostly in 2015–2017 vans, but these are rarer). Gas engines tend to be cheaper to repair and don’t have the complex DEF/DPF systems. In terms of longevity, owners have seen the gas V6s easily go 200k miles with routine maintenancewww.copilotsearch.com. Ford’s EcoBoost (3.5L) has a lot of power (310 hp) and can handle mountain driving well, but it is a bit more complex (twin turbos) – still, many report good durability if maintenance (especially timely oil changes) is done. The diesel 3.2L can also run a long time, but since it’s less common, parts and mechanics for it are fewer; given no huge MPG or longevity advantage in this platform, most prefer the gas Transits in the used market.

One advantage of the Transit is maintenance cost: by one estimate, the Transit’s average annual repair cost is around $888 (for a Transit-350)repairpal.com, whereas a Mercedes Sprinter is usually higher. Ford parts are widely available and any Ford dealer or independent shop can service a Transit. Additionally, if something like the engine did fail, replacement used engines/transmissions for Ford are cheaper and easier to source than Mercedes parts. Overall, the Transit scores mid-pack on reliability (RepairPal gives it about average reliability rating for vans, 3 out of 5) – not perfect, but no glaring systemic issues for the majority of owners.

Drivetrain Options: Transits in the 2015–2019 range are Rear-Wheel Drive. Ford did not offer AWD on Transits until the 2020 model year, which is out of our price rangeflatlinevanco.com. So all affordable used Transits will be RWD with traction control. RWD is fine for most uses; if you need extra traction, you can carry some weight over the rear axle and use good tires. (Some vanlifers in snowy regions do fine with RWD Transits plus snow tires, since the van’s weight provides decent traction.) The Transit’s ground clearance is a bit lower than a Sprinter’sflatlinevanco.com, but still adequate for dirt roads and modest off-road use – you just can’t rock crawl in it. All Transits have automatic transmissions; older ones (2015-2019) have a 6-speed auto. A quirk: there was a driveshaft recall on earlier Transits – the flexible coupling on the driveshaft needed periodic replacement – ensure any recall service was performed (Ford had a program to install a new driveshaft design or schedule regular coupling replacements). Aside from that, the drivetrain is straightforward. No AWD in this price range, but if you really need AWD, note that 2020+ AWD Transits exist (they just cost $40k+ used).

Notable Features: One big selling point of the Transit is its roof height options. The high-roof Transit is the tallest of these three vans – interior height about 6’5” (for high roof) which is even a few inches taller than a Sprinter’s high roofflatlinevanco.com. This is great for tall van dwellers or adding overhead storage. Even the mid-roof Transit allows many people to stand (about 5’8” height). Wheelbase options include a long 148” WB (and an extended body variant) or the standard 130” WB. For camper conversions, the 148” high roof is very popular, offering a good balance of space and drivability. The interior width of the Transit is narrower than the ProMaster (about 70″ at the floor, 54″ between wheel wells). This means that, unlike the wide ProMaster, a Transit often cannot fit a bed width-wise without adding “flares” or creative positioning, if you’re tall. Many Transit camper builds have the bed lengthwise due to this narrower body. It’s something to consider for ease of conversion, though plenty of layouts work in the Transit’s space.

Common Issues to Watch For (Transit): Overall the Transit is robust, but a few issues crop up on higher-mileage units:

Transmission Problems: Some Transit vans (especially those with the 6-speed automatic and heavy use) have reported transmission slipping or rough shiftingmoxievanco.com. A few owners experienced transmission failure before 150k, though many have no issues. How to avoid: During a test drive, pay attention to how the transmission shifts in all gears. It should be smooth and not hesitatant or clunky. Check the transmission fluid condition if possible. If there are any shudders or slips, be cautious – a rebuild can be costly. Regular fluid changes are key, so ask if that service was done around 60k-100k miles. If not, you might plan to do a flush soon after purchase.
Driveline/Engine Noise: There were reports of driveshaft coupling issues on 2015-2017 Transits (a clunk or vibration at highway speeds). Ford issued a recall, so ensure that’s been addressed. Also listen for any turbo whistle or knocking if it’s an EcoBoost engine – the EcoBoost should be powerful and quiet aside from a turbo whoosh under acceleration. Any misfire or loss of power could indicate spark plugs or ignition coils needing service (tune-ups on the 3.5 EcoBoost are due around 100k).
Electrical Gremlins: A few owners mention minor electrical issues – things like faulty door ajar sensors or backup camera glitches. There’s also a known issue with battery drainage if upfitter switches or auxiliary equipment were wired poorly. How to avoid: Test all electronics on your walkaround – interior lights, power windows, backup camera, etc. These vans are modern, so an odd warning light (like airbag or tire pressure sensor) might pop on; usually not deal-breakers, but check that wiring for any aftermarket additions is clean. The Transit’s electrical system is generally simpler than the Mercedes (no DEF sensors to worry about), so fewer mysterious warning lights overall.
Body and Roof: Since you’ll be converting, check for any leaks or roof damage. High-roof Transits have a one-piece roof that’s usually leak-free, but if there were any roof racks or vents installed, ensure they were sealed properly. Look for water stains in the headliner or cargo area, which could indicate past leaks.
General Wear: Similar to any used van, check the brakes, suspension, and tires. Transits have independent front suspension that can wear – listen for front-end clunks (could be ball joints or tie rods). Replacement parts are not too expensive, but knowing the condition helps your bargaining. Also, the rear differential on high-mileage RWD Transits might hum if fluid hasn’t been changed – a light noise is okay, a loud whine is not. Summary (Transit): A Ford Transit offers a newer vehicle for the money, likely fewer surprise maintenance costs, and very broad service support (any town with a Ford dealer can work on it). It’s a favorite for many DIY camper conversions now due to its reliability and availability. The tall interior and multiple lengths give flexibility in build design, though the narrower width is a constraint for bed placement compared to ProMaster. In terms of driving, Transits drive more like a big SUV – they’re quite comfortable and have strong acceleration, especially with the EcoBoost engine. Fuel economy will be a bit lower than a diesel Sprinter (expect ~14–16 MPG from the gas V6, depending on loadwww.contravans.com), but gas is cheaper per gallon and maintenance is simpler. If you find a Transit with around 100k-150k miles, you’re potentially getting the sweet spot of remaining life and affordability. Many consider the Transit the best all-around value for a camper van when on a budget.

Ram ProMaster (Used Under $20K)

Model Years & Price Range: The Ram ProMaster (also known as the Dodge ProMaster) entered the U.S. market in 2014. It typically has the lowest purchase price among these three vans. With $20k or less, you can find **newer model years or lower miles** on a ProMaster compared to an equivalent Sprinter/Transit. For example, it’s not unusual to see a **2016 or 2017 ProMaster** with around 100k miles listed for$ n15k– $20k. Even **2018 ProMasters** with very high miles can fall well under$ n20k (e.g. one 2018 ProMaster 2500 with ~160k miles was listed for about ** $13,900**[autotrader.com](https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/ram/promaster/tucson-az#:~:text=AZ%20www,See%20estimated%20payment)). Older 2014-2015 models with 150k+ miles might go for$ n10-15kwww.autotrader.com. In short, the ProMaster tends to depreciate faster, which is bad for the original owner but great for you as a used buyer looking for value. You can likely afford a 2014–2017 ProMaster in decent shape under $20k, perhaps even a 2018 if you’re okay with higher mileage.

Typical Mileage: Many used ProMasters in this price range will have 80,000 to 150,000 miles. Because they’re relatively newer, you might find some with under 100k (especially smaller wheelbase or low-roof variants coming off lease). A ProMaster with ~100k miles is a good target – the 3.6L gas V6 engine (Pentastar) is quite common and is known to regularly run 200k+ miles with maintenance (this engine is also used in many Dodge/Ram vehicles). In fact, both the Transit and ProMaster have similar expected lifespans – roughly 200k miles before major issues, though some owners report 250k or morewww.contravans.com. Like the others, high mileage isn’t as scary if maintenance was done. One thing to note: because ProMasters are often used by delivery services (like contractors, Amazon, etc.), you might find many that have seen hard city driving (lots of stops/starts). So 100k miles of city courier duty is “harder” life than 100k highway miles. Try to gauge the prior use from seller info or vehicle history. Overall, though, plenty of ProMasters hit 150k+ miles on their original drivetrains.

Condition Expectations: ProMasters under $20k are commonly **work vans** or former rentals. The interior will likely be utilitarian – vinyl or cloth seats, bare cargo area (possibly with a divider or shelving that’s been removed). The unique thing about the ProMaster is its **front-wheel-drive layout** and very low floor height. This is great for easy loading and stepping in and out (no driveline hump in the cargo area). It also means if the van was overloaded, the front suspension/tires might show wear (since all the weight and driving force is on the front axle). Check the front tire tread for uneven wear, which could indicate alignment or suspension issues. Cosmetically, ProMasters sometimes get a reputation for “cheap” exterior trim – you might see faded plastic bumpers or a loose piece of trim, but those are minor. The body panels are flat and relatively easy to repair if dented. Also, because many ProMasters are white, look for any signs of vinyl decals removed (fading or impressions) from prior company logos. In general, you can expect a ProMaster of the same year to be a bit less “luxurious” inside than a Sprinter – but as a blank canvas for a camper, it’s perfectly fine. It has the basics you need and anything missing (like a rear camera or better stereo) can be added aftermarket.**Reliability and Maintenance:** The ProMaster uses mostly proven Chrysler/Dodge mechanics. The most common engine is the **3.6L Pentastar V6 (gasoline)** with a 6-speed automatic transmission. This powertrain is widely used (found in Dodge Chargers, Jeeps, etc.) and has a decent reliability track record. Maintenance like oil changes, spark plugs, and transmission fluid are straightforward and any mechanic can handle them. Repair costs for the ProMaster have been reported slightly **higher than the Transit** on average – one source lists the ProMaster 2500’s annual repair cost around **$ n1,147**, which is above the full-size van averagerepairpal.com. For comparison, a Ford Transit’s is around $900repairpal.com. This might be because some ProMasters had issues that needed addressing (or possibly because of more frequent brake/tire wear). However, the parts availability is good: there are 3,500+ Ram dealers in the U.S. that can service ProMasterssprinter-source.com, not to mention countless independent shops. You won’t struggle to find service for a ProMaster, even more so than for a Sprinter (which has far fewer specialized service centers)sprinter-source.com.

One thing to be aware of: early EcoDiesel models (2014–2016). Ram offered a 3.0L EcoDiesel inline-4 in the ProMaster initially, paired with a unique automated-manual transmission. Those had a lot of reported problems (both the diesel engine and that transmission were considered troublesome). By the late 2010s, most ProMasters on the market are the gas V6, as the diesel option was phased out. If you encounter a rare diesel ProMaster under $20k, approach with caution and understand why it’s cheap – many have found them to be maintenance headaches (parts for those Fiat-sourced diesels can be “unobtanium” in the U.S. and the single-clutch transmission is a “maintenance nightmare” according to some mechanicssprinter-source.com). The gasoline ProMaster, on the other hand, is simpler and quite reliable. No turbos, no DEF emissions fluid – just a sturdy V6. Common maintenance by 100k might include brakes, maybe a wheel bearing or CV joint, and routine fluid changes.

Drivetrain: The ProMaster is unique in this class for being Front-Wheel Drive only. There is no AWD or 4x4 version at allflatlinevanco.com. FWD has pros and cons. Pros: better traction on slippery roads when empty (the engine’s weight is over the drive wheels), a tighter turning radius, and a very low floor height (because no driveshaft or rear differential)flatlinevanco.com. It’s excellent in cities and even in moderate snow, a front-drive ProMaster with snow tires can do well (many ambulances in Europe use this same van platform for that reason). The cons: FWD can struggle going uphill on loose gravel or mud (with a heavy camper build, a lot of weight shifts to the rear, potentially reducing front grip). It’s also not ideal for serious off-roading or deep sand – the van is best kept to roads or mild trails. Additionally, FWD means the ground clearance is a bit lower and you have CV axles up front that can wear under heavy loads. But for most camper folk sticking to highways, campgrounds, and graded forest roads, the ProMaster’s FWD is not a big issue. Just know you won’t have the option to add 4x4 like you could with a Sprinter (albeit at high cost). In this price bracket, though, none of the vans will realistically have AWD/4x4, so the ProMaster is on even footing with a 2WD Transit or Sprinter in that regard – just that it drives the front instead of rear.

Conversion Friendliness: This is where the ProMaster shines for many. It has a “square” interior shape – nearly vertical walls and the widest body of the threeflatlinevanco.com flatlinevanco.com. The cargo width is about 6'3" wall-to-wall, which often allows sideways sleeping layouts without adding flaresflatlinevanco.com. In practical terms, if you’re under ~6 feet tall, you can sleep sideways in a ProMaster and save space. Even taller folks sometimes can with a slight angle. This width and boxy shape make it easier to build cabinets and install walls/insulation, since you’re not contending with curves as muchflatlinevanco.com. The floor is also nice and low (about 21” off the ground, several inches lower than Transit/Sprinter), meaning more headroom and easier entry. These features make the ProMaster arguably the most conversion-friendly van, especially for DIY builders who appreciate right angles. Aftermarket support (like cabinetry kits, roof racks, windows) is growing for ProMaster, though not as extensive as Sprinter’s marketflatlinevanco.com flatlinevanco.com. Still, you can find all essential camper components for it.

Common Issues to Watch For (ProMaster): Keep an eye out for a few ProMaster-specific problems when shopping:

Front-End Wear: Because of FWD and heavy front loads, front suspension and tires take a beating. It’s common to need front brake pads and rotors relatively often on ProMasters (sometimes every 40k-60k miles depending on use). How to avoid: Inspect the front tires for uneven wear – if inner edges are bald, it could indicate misalignment or struts wear. During a drive, listen for CV joint clicks on sharp turns (indicates CV axles/joints may need replacement, which is moderate cost). Also brake test: does it stop straight, any vibration (warped rotors)? None of these are deal-breakers, but they tell you what maintenance might be due.
Transmission Issues (minor): The 6-speed automatic in the gas ProMaster is generally solid (it’s basically a Chrysler 62TE used in minivans). Some users have reported occasional shift flares or hard shifting in older models. How to avoid: Again, test drive and feel for smooth shifting. Check the ATF (if possible) or ask if it’s ever been serviced. It’s not known for widespread failure, but any used van with 100k+ miles could be due for a fluid change if not done. If you happen upon a diesel ProMaster (rare), be extra cautious – those had many transmission complaints (but gas ones did not, relatively speaking).
Engine and Cooling: The 3.6L engine is mostly trouble-free. One thing to listen for is a ticking noise from the engine, which could indicate a known Pentastar issue with the rocker arms/lifters (sometimes around 100k+ miles). It’s not uncommon and can be fixed, but use it for negotiation if you hear it. Also check for any coolant leaks or if the engine has ever overheated. The Pentastar V6 in the ProMaster has to work a bit hard moving a big van, so cooling system should be in good shape (check coolant level and look for leaks around the radiator and water pump).
Electrical/Accessories: The ProMaster is relatively simple electronically, but some owners have mentioned odd quirks like windshield wiper linkage failures or door lock actuators going bad. Ensure all the basics work – headlights, wipers, locks, backup camera (if equipped). The backup camera, if stock, is often mounted low on the rear door and can get dirty or knocked – verify it’s functional or be ready to install an aftermarket one.
Leaks: Always check for water leaks. ProMasters have large single-piece rear doors – inspect the seals. Also, the factory roof is one piece (no factory seams to worry about like older American vans), so leaks usually come from added roof accessories. If the van had something mounted to the roof (like a beacon light or rack), ensure the holes were sealed when removed.
Aesthetic Issues: Not a reliability thing, but note that resale value on ProMaster is lowerwww.contravans.com. That benefits you now (cheaper purchase), but if you plan to resell the van later, keep it well maintained to get a good price. Some people shy away from ProMasters due to things like the “boxy” look or the Ram brand perception, but as a buyer, use that to your advantage on price. The “awkward” driving position is a common complaint (the seats are a bit higher and some taller drivers feel the windshield is short)sprinter-source.com– make sure you feel comfortable in it. These ergonomic niggles aside, many contractors and fleets use ProMasters precisely because they deliver results and easy serviceabilitysprinter-source.com. Summary (ProMaster): The Ram ProMaster offers the most van for your dollar in terms of model year and miles. It’s an especially good value if your priority is an easy conversion (the interior space is excellent for the size). Reliability is decent – the drivetrain should last with normal care, though expect to do a bit more front-end maintenance over time (brakes/tires) due to FWD. It’s not as “refined” to drive as a Transit or Sprinter (some drivers love it, others dislike the feel – test drive to see what you think). But in terms of core functionality – a roomy box on wheels with a strong, simple engine – the ProMaster is hard to beat. If you don’t need to do serious off-roading and you want a relatively newer van for under $20k, the ProMaster is often the cheapest way to get a high-roof van that’s ready to build out. Many budget-conscious vanlifers choose it for exactly that reason. Just do your due diligence on maintenance history and inspect it like any used vehicle.

Best Overall Value for the Money

Each of these vans has strengths and weaknesses, but value for money is the key here. With a $20,000 ceiling, you’re looking for the best combination of reliability, longevity, and features you can get for that price. Here’s how they stack up:

Mercedes Sprinter: Longevity and reputation, but high upkeep. A Sprinter can run the longest in terms of miles (diesel longevity) and has a certain prestige and comfort (they have very ergonomic seats and often more creature comforts)flatlinevanco.com. However, under $20k you’ll be in an older Sprinter that may require significant maintenance. **Pros:** Diesel fuel economy and range, optional 4x4 (if you somehow find one, but unlikely under$ n20k), lots of aftermarket camper parts (windows, racks, etc.) tailored to Sprintersflatlinevanco.com flatlinevanco.com. Cons: Highest cost of ownership – even used, they cost more to buy and maintainflatlinevanco.com. Risk of costly repairs as mileage climbs (emissions system, etc.)vanlivingforum.com. Also fewer service centers in remote areassprinter-source.com. In pure “value” terms, a Sprinter is often not the cheapest way to get on the road; you’re paying for the Mercedes badge and capabilities you might not fully use. Unless you absolutely need a Sprinter’s specific features (diesel heater integration, or you find an amazing deal on one), the Sprinter will usually cost more over time for a given budget.
Ford Transit: Balanced and widely recommended. For many, the Transit hits the sweet spot of affordability, reliability, and availability. With $20k you can get a Transit that’s newer and likely less worn-out than an equivalent Sprinter. Pros: Strong gas engines with decent lifespanwww.copilotsearch.com, relatively low maintenance costs (no major weak points beyond normal wear)moxievanco.com, and tons of Ford service locations if something goes wrong. It’s also quite nice to drive and can be found in high-roof configurations for comfortable living space. Cons: No factory 4WD option in older models, slightly narrower interior than Sprinter/ProMaster, and slightly lower ground clearanceflatlinevanco.com(if you plan off-road travel). Also, some early build quality issues (like the driveshaft coupling recall) to address, but those are manageable. Overall, the Transit is often cited as the best overall value for a DIY camper: you get a modern, capable van without European maintenance costs. Many van conversion companies and vanlife veterans recommend a used Transit as the first choice for budget builds due to this balance.
Ram ProMaster: Maximum space for the dollar, with some trade-offs. In terms of sheer purchase price vs. age/miles, the ProMaster often wins – you’ll pay less for the same year or get a newer van for the same money. Pros: Lowest upfront cost of the threeflatlinevanco.com, front-drive traction can be handy in mild snow/mud, and the wide, square interior is extremely efficient for camper layoutsflatlinevanco.com flatlinevanco.com. Maintenance is generally okay; routine parts (brakes, plugs, etc.) are inexpensive and any Dodge dealer can handle them. Cons: Build quality and driving dynamics are a bit more utilitarian – some people don’t love the driving position or FWD handling (especially in crosswinds or mountain roads). The ProMaster also has no option for AWD and lower ground clearance, limiting it if your dream is extensive off-grid overlandingflatlinevanco.com. Reliability is good but perhaps a notch below Ford’s – for example, RepairPal rates its maintenance costs slightly higherrepairpal.com. That said, many businesses depend on ProMasters daily, which speaks to their practicality. If your goal is to maximize interior volume and you’re watching every dollar, the ProMaster could be the best value pick – you might save several thousand dollars versus an equivalent Sprinter, and that money can go straight into your conversion build. Best Overall: For most buyers on a strict $20k budget, a **Ford Transit** will be the best overall value when you weigh purchase price, longevity, and upkeep. It gives a great middle-ground on all factors – you get a relatively modern van that should last a long time with fewer surprise costs. The **Ram ProMaster** is a close second, especially if you prioritize cost savings and interior space over off-road capability or aesthetics. It often offers the **newest model year for your money** and is very camper-friendly inside. The Sprinter, while a fantastic van in many respects, typically **offers less value under$ n20k** unless you specifically need its features (e.g. you found a well-maintained one-owner Sprinter and are prepared for higher maintenance). Many budget camper builders steer towards the Transit or ProMaster for a hassle-free experience.In short: the Ford Transit is often the top recommendation for a reliable, long-lasting camper base on a $20k budgetwww.copilotsearch.com, with the Ram ProMaster as an excellent alternative if you want to save money or need the wider spaceflatlinevanco.com. The Mercedes Sprinter can work if you find a gem, but be cautious of its long-term costsvanlivingforum.com.

Buying from a Dealership vs. a Private Seller

When shopping for a used van, you can buy through a private party (the current owner) or a dealership. Each route has its pros and cons, especially in this price range:Private Seller Advantages: You’ll often get a lower price and more room to negotiate from a private seller. Individuals don’t have the overhead that dealers do (no commissions, lot fees, etc.), so their asking prices tend to be lower to begin withwww.autotrader.com www.autotrader.com. In fact, a private seller’s price might be thousands less than a dealer for a similar van. You also can talk directly to the person who drove and maintained the van – they might provide service records, share the van’s history, and you can get a better feel for how it was used. Negotiating is usually easier one-on-one: private sellers expect some haggling and often price their vehicle with that in mind. You can start at a lower offer with a private sale than you would at a dealershipwww.autotrader.com. If you show up with cash (or confirmed financing), that can be a strong bargaining chip – private owners know if they pass up your offer, they have to keep waiting for another buyer, which is time-consumingwww.autotrader.com. This can motivate them to accept a fair lower offer, especially if you politely point out any issues that need fixing (e.g. “It’s going to need new tires, so how about $1,000 off?”). In short, buying privately often means a better deal financiallywww.autotrader.com.

Private Seller Disadvantages: The flip side is legwork and risk. You won’t get a warranty or return policy – it’s typically as-is. You’ll need to handle the title transfer, registration, and any inspections yourself. It’s on you to vet the van’s condition (getting a pre-purchase inspection by a mechanic is highly recommended). Also, be cautious and safe when meeting private sellers – meet in daylight, ideally at a public place. Ensure the title is clear (no liens) and matches the seller’s ID. Another limitation: private sellers have limited selection – you’re looking at one van at a time, which may or may not meet your needs. You might have to search longer or travel to find the right van from a private party.Dealer Advantages: Dealerships (including used car lots and commercial truck dealers) offer convenience and selection. They often have multiple vans to choose from, so you can compare on the spot. A dealer will handle paperwork like the title and registration for you, and you can usually trade-in a vehicle if you have one, applying its value to the purchase. Dealers may also offer financing options – if you need a loan, a dealer can often arrange it in-house, whereas with a private seller you’d need to secure a loan from a bank beforehand. Another potential perk is that some dealers give a limited warranty or return period on used vehicles (e.g. 30-day powertrain warranty, or a 3-day return policy if something is seriously wrong). This isn’t guaranteed, but if you find a certified pre-owned commercial van, it could have some warranty coverage. Finally, dealers are subject to certain consumer protection laws and the FTC’s Used Car Rule (they must disclose if it’s “As Is” or have you sign a Buyer’s Guide). You have a bit more recourse for blatant fraud when buying from a business (though it’s always “buyer beware” to some extent).Dealer Disadvantages: The major downside is cost. Dealers need to make a profit, so their asking prices include markup. You will typically pay more for the same van at a dealer than from a private sellerwww.autotrader.com. Your bargaining power is a bit lower; while you can negotiate at a dealership, they often have a bottom-line price factoring in their costs. They also might try to tack on fees (documentation fees, dealer prep fees, etc.) – be vigilant about the out-the-door price, not just the sticker pricewww.autotrader.com. Another aspect is that salespeople might pressure you or use tactics to upsell warranties or add-ons. It can be a less personal, sometimes more stressful negotiating experience than dealing directly with an owner. That said, if you’re not comfortable evaluating a van’s condition yourself, a reputable dealer might have already inspected and reconditioned the vehicle (ask for any service they did).

Which to Choose? If getting the best price is your top priority and you’re willing to do a bit more work, buying private is often betterwww.autotrader.com. For a $15k-$ n20k used van, you could save a meaningful amount by avoiding dealer markups. You also might find a seller who is an enthusiast or who kept detailed records – sometimes vanlifers sell their rigs privately and include many extras. On the other hand, if you prefer a more straightforward process with financing and some peace-of-mind protections, a dealer could be worth the extra cost. This is especially true if the dealer specializes in commercial vans; they might have inspected it and addressed common issues before sale.

Many savvy buyers search both avenues. You might start looking privately (Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, classifieds) and also check dealer inventory. If you go the private route, just remember: do your due diligence – get a mechanical inspection ($100 or so could save you from a bad deal), run a vehicle history report, and verify the paperwork. If something feels off or the seller is reluctant to let you inspect, walk away.

Tips for Finding a Good Deal and Negotiating

Regardless of where you buy, here are some tips to negotiate and ensure you get the best value for your money:

Research Market Prices: Knowledge is your best tool. Before negotiating, look up the market value of the specific van you want. Use resources like Kelley Blue Book or NADA Guides to get a rough idea of the van’s value given its year, mileage, and condition. Also scan online listings for similar Sprinters, Transits, or ProMasters to see asking prices. If you find, for example, that 2015 Transit cargo vans with 130k miles list around $18k on average, you’ll know a fair price range. This prevents you from overpaying and gives you confidence to counter-offer.
Inspect and List Issues: When you go to see a van, inspect it thoroughly (or have a mechanic do so). Take note of any flaws: tires worn out, windshield cracked, brakes squeaking, check-engine light on, etc. These are your negotiation points. A private seller might not know their van needs X or might expect to haggle those, and a dealer might hope you didn’t notice. Politely point out each issue and, if possible, state the approximate cost to fix (“The tires are pretty worn – a new set will run about $600, could we factor that in?”). This justifies your lower offer.
Cash and Timing: If buying private, showing up with cash (or a certified cashier’s check) can encourage a quick deal. Mention that you’re ready to buy immediately if you can agree on a price. Private sellers often want a smooth, quick sale, so a buyer prepared to pay on the spot has an edgewww.autotrader.com. At dealerships, the equivalent is being pre-approved for a loan or ready to put money down – it shows you’re a serious buyer. Also, timing can matter: visiting a dealership near the end of the month or quarter when they need to hit sales targets can make them more flexible on price. For private sales, if you catch a listing that’s been up for a few weeks, the seller might be more willing to deal rather than wait longer.
Be Polite but Firm: Negotiation doesn’t have to be adversarial. Clearly state your offer and how you arrived at it. For example: “Considering the mileage and that I’ll need to do the brakes and fix a sensor, I’m comfortable paying $16,500.” Then stay quiet and listen. Don’t low-ball unrealistically, but do start a bit lower than your actual max so there’s room to meet in the middle. If the seller’s counter-offer is too high, don’t be afraid to politely walk away – sometimes that prompts a call back later accepting your offer. Know your limit and be ready to stick to it.
Watch for Extra Fees (Dealers): When negotiating with a dealer, focus on the “out-the-door” price, which includes all taxes and fees. Dealers might agree on a price, then add hundreds in doc fees or other charges. You can negotiate those too. Ask for a breakdown of all fees. Some fees (tax, DMV) are standard, but others can be padded. If you see something like a “dealer prep fee” or excessive paperwork fee, challenge it or ask for it to be removedwww.autotrader.com. Being informed and assertive here can save you a few hundred dollars.
Warranty or No Warranty: If the van is just out of factory warranty (which many in this range will be), dealers may offer to sell you an extended warranty or service plan. For a $20k used van, these are usually not worth the extra cost – they often have many exclusions. Instead, budget the money you’d spend on a warranty for any repairs. The exception might be if a dealer includes a short 30-90 day warranty for free – that’s a nice perk to cover immediate issues. But don’t let them upsell you heavily; focus on the vehicle price first.
Get Everything in Writing: Once you settle on a price, ensure all promises are in writing (especially at a dealership). If the dealer said they’ll fix something as part of the deal, it should be written on the purchase order. For private sales, fill out a bill of sale with the agreed price and both parties’ info. This avoids any last-minute confusion. Using these tips, you can confidently search for the best van that fits your camper conversion dreams without breaking the bank. With a bit of patience and savvy negotiating, you’ll likely find that a well-cared-for Ford Transit or Ram ProMaster offers the best value under $20,000, giving you a reliable canvas to build your home on wheels. Happy van hunting, and good luck with your camper conversionwww.autotrader.com

Sources:

Whole Lotta Nothing Blog – “Tips on buying a used Sprinter van” (first-hand experiences on Sprinter models, mileage, and common issues)a.wholelottanothing.org a.wholelottanothing.org
Van Living Forum – “The Fatal Flaw of Mercedes Sprinters” (discussion of Sprinter emissions issues by 120k miles)vanlivingforum.com
Reddit r/vandwellers – Sprinter high-mileage discussions (500k mile engine longevity with good maintenance)www.reddit.com
CoPilot Search – “How Long Do Ford Transits Last?” (typical lifespan 160k–300k miles, defines high mileage at 150k+)www.copilotsearch.com www.copilotsearch.com
Moxie Van Co – “Common Problems with a Ford Transit” (notes on transmission slipping in some models)moxievanco.com
Flatline Van Co – “Sprinter vs. Transit vs. ProMaster” (comparative features: Sprinter 4x4 availability, Transit roof height, ProMaster interior shape and affordability)flatlinevanco.com flatlinevanco.com
Sprinter-Source Forum – user insights (ProMaster service network vs Sprinter’s, user experiences)sprinter-source.com
RepairPal Reliability Data – (Annual repair cost: Transit ~ $888; ProMaster ~$ n1,147 showing maintenance cost differences)repairpal.com repairpal.com
Autotrader Listings – (Examples of used van prices/mileage: e.g. 2019 Transit 350 w/172k miles under $20k[hutchesonford.com](https://www.hutchesonford.com/used-vehicles/priced-under-20k/?srsltid=AfmBOooHPSXp9Uaj96ZfBmFS-huc6_KApR0rXxok30YXHjjkqmtysFYP#:~:text=Sales%20www,Mileage%3A%20172%2C990); 2018 ProMaster 2500 w/160k miles ~$ n13.9kwww.autotrader.com)
Autotrader – “Private Seller vs. Dealer When Buying a Used Car” (advantages of private sales: lower prices, more bargaining power)www.autotrader.com www.autotrader.com